Tuesday, February 28, 2012

First Impressions of South Africa


They say your first impression is always the most important. As any stranger in a foreign land, every interaction and every experience, along with what I have visually seen over the last three weeks is shaping my perspective of South Africa.  Although not my first time to South Africa, my perspective as a tourist is different than that of a resident.  Culturally, I have noticed two things, thus far, that I have found fascinating:  the 1) culture complexities and 2) the degree of American influence. 
Nestle Cheerios-Another explain of contradiction!

More than Meets the Eye
When I first arrived here someone told me, “South Africa may seem like Europe but if you go deeper you will realize you are still in Africa.”  They were trying to explain that even though I could enjoy all of the creature comforts of home (e.g. buying a frozen pizza at a grocery store, grabbing a burger at a fast food restaurant, clothe shopping at a multilevel mall, seeing a movie at a movie theater, etc.); I will still experience many of the challenges of living in Africa that I experienced in Benin (TBD: since I am still living in Jo’burg don’t really have a good idea of what this means yet).  This paradoxical nature, or inverse relationship, really sums up, in part, South Africa to me thus far.  I am learning that there are always two sides to the coin.  And not that this isn’t true anywhere else, but it is really apparent to me here.   Here are couple more juxtapositions I have noticed:

  • Black World vs. White World: A remnant of apartheid.  However, this doesn’t mean their society isn’t integrated. Similar to the U.S. there are different worlds that are dictated by race.  I should also mention there also is a Colored World and an Indian World.  And even within the White World there is an English World and an Afrikaans World.
  •  First World wealth vs. Third world poverty: I saw a Bugatti for the first time in Jo’burg and there are tons of Ferrari, Mercedes, Audio, etc. dealerships lining the streets of Jo’burg.  The homes in Sandton put MTV crib homes to shame (at least from what I can see, they are all behind huge walls and gates).  Miles away though people are still living in shacks made of scrap tin.  And if you get a bit further out (well a lot further out), some people are still living in traditional villages.
  •  Western culture vs. Africa culture: Self-explanatory.
  • Xhosa, Zulu, Tsaswana, Afrikaans and the other local languages vs. English: Language is important here.  It is part of your identity and history.  It denotes your tribe or community and your lineage.  English is the language of business and progress though. So I can communicate here but I feel like I will not truly understand the culture unless I learn one of the local languages. 
  •  British influence vs. American influence: Even though South Africans drive on the left side of the street, they are listening to American music---hip-hop, R&B, rock---in their cars.  They may even be driving a Ford Focus!
This just reaffirms for me to always go deeper and beyond what I see on the surface to truly understand what is going on.

They Not Only Drank the Kool-Aid, They Also Ate the Apple Pie
I am simply amazed by how much people know about American politics, celebs, and culture here.  I believe you could take any urban dwelling South African and drop them off in the States and they would be able to fluidly chitchat as a native about American pop culture.  Considering that many South Africans grew up watching American TV shows and movies, this isn’t at all that surprising. 

Today, if you have satellite TV you can watch everything from Real Housewives of Atlanta (yes I know how embarrassing) and Grey’s Anatomy to the Daily Show and Southpark.  Even with my rabbit ears TV, I can watch the Steve Harvey Show, Cold Case, Modern Family, My Cousin Earl, and the House of Payne. The Grammy’s and Whitney Houston’s funeral were even aired here. 

Needless to say, the cable stations and movie theaters are flooded with our movies.  Likewise, so are the radio waves and the nightclubs “booming” with our music.   And of course music videos can be seen on MTV!

The style of dress thus mirrors these images as well.  I am amazed to see women wearing the exact same styles as what is “in” at home.  And of course there are a slew of kids that follow hip-hop trends.  So it is normal to see a guy wearing tight jeans with a sag (he probably even has visible tats, an oversize baseball hat and a white tee) and girls in leggings or colorful tight jeans, sandals, and a tank top or an ‘80s style off the should shirt. There are even a ton of girls with Mohawks, and shaved sides, Rihanna style hair dos.  When I went out to the club, it looked like a bad rap video (like the low budget ones shown on BET "After Dark", I would be remiss if I didn’t say that I saw the same thing while living in France).  They were even “Doing the Dougie” the whole night.

I should also mention that I can buy People, Glamour, O and a slew of other American magazines at any grocery store or retail outlet that sells magazines.

As much as I have been able to chat with people about Kim Kardashian’s fake marriage, I also have been able to chat about the Republican debates.  Again, I was baffled that people were up on American politics and following our elections. Meanwhile, initially when I arrived, I couldn’t even tell you the name of the President of South Africa (don’t judge me).

I am curious to learn though with all this Americana, how are Americans perceived.  That will be a future post!

Overall, I am loving my experience thus far.  It is a great country.  I am intrigued by the wealth of diversity--people, geography, cultures, and languages, and the historical complexities.  All of which leads to tons of interesting and fun things to do! 

--Mei

Freak out Moment

Peace Corps service is characterized by emotional highs and lows. I figure if I only share with you my highs then I’m not giving you a true understanding of the experience.

So I had a freak out moment yesterday (and if ya know me can I be prone to these :0). I went out to where I will be living for a meeting. It’s a town in Africa. (It’s a TOWN in AFRICA!). After being in Jo’burg for the past two weeks (I really liked living in Africa lite), I have to mentally prepare to transition to living in a town (which by American standards really is a big village with electricity and without the mud brick houses). Plus, as we are taking a tour of the school where we will be hosting the soccer tournament (which is nestled on the side of a mountain, in the “woods”), the teacher is telling us to watch out for snakes (she has removed two from her office this year---only one of which was poisonous???) and we saw a bat on the side of a building.

All of this made me realize that I completely flipped my life upside down and started questioning why???? I was comfortable and am now completely uncomfortable. I have no clue what my future holds. I’m in a strange and foreign land. I have no car (and have to take public taxis better known in West Africa as bush taxis). I have no money. And I am completely and utterly alone (there is no corps to the Peace Corps!). I’m older now too than when I first did this, which makes me rationalize everything a bit more.

On the other side I do realize that being too comfortable, settled, and unfulfilled were my catalyst for this journey. I would sit in my cube at work numb, trying to build up the motivation to go to meetings or do my work. I felt like I lost a bit of myself every day I went to work---a glacier slowly being chiseled to an ice cube. Now, I am doing everything I wanted to do (live abroad, make a positive impact on society while doing what I love-marketing). I may not know what my future holds but I know I am walking in purpose. I spent three years being miserable in Philadelphia. I think I can spend 10-months being uncomfortable in a town in South Africa. Plus, I know this is where I am supposed to be and frequently receive confirmation of that fact!

Below is one of the songs I listen to, to give me perspective during my freak out moments.

--Mei


Monday, February 20, 2012

I live in South Africa (and I think I am a Peace Corps Volunteer)

I have been in South Africa for almost two weeks and am settled into my temporary Jo'burg life.  To catch you up on what I have been up to for the last two weeks (warning in advance this is going to be a bit long so I can include pics as everyone has requested)...

I flew from Atlanta to Jo'burg with two other Response Volunteers, Joy (Kenya 77-79) and Lorena (Togo 09-11).  Vele, a Peace Corps driver, met us at the airport and took us to Pretoria.  We stayed in 
Me, Joy, Vele, and Lorena at the OR Tambo International Airport
Pretoria (where Peace Corps South Africa is headquartered) for three days of Peace Corps training.  We immediately knew this experience was going to be different from our previous services based on our accommodations during training.  As Lorena stated, "this isn't Togo!"  ROTFL.  We stayed at the Rose 
Rose Guesthouse Backyard (yes that's a pool!)

Front View of the Rose Guesthouse
Guesthouse, a B&B in the Brooklyn area of Pretoria.

South Africa is the medical hub for Peace Corps in Africa. So if you are serving in Africa and are Medically Evacuated (you have a medical problem that can't be taken care of in your host country) you are sent to South Africa.  The Rose Guesthouse is where Medically Evacuated volunteers stay.  So we had the opportunity to meet volunteers serving in other parts of Africa during our stay there.
Enjoying Breakfast with Other Volunteers
Swear-in
With John Jacoby (Peace Corps South Africa Country Director) After Swear-in
We swore in after three days of "training" that provided us an overview of the culture and coached us on how to stay safe and healthy.  I then left Pretoria and headed to Jo'burg for three weeks of orientation with the Special Olympics.  

The outside of my Randburg "Cottage" (see the chickens)

The Living Room (I only watch 1 channel on the TV)
The Kitchen (and yes that's a microwave and the shower even has steaming hot water!!!!)

The bedroom (the decor creeps me out a bit, lol)

I have two beds so I use the other as a "dresser"

I think this chair is especially creepy :0)

So...I am now living in the Randburg area of Jo'burg in a B&B that provides temporary housing. It's conveniently located behind a shopping center with a nice grocery store (Checkers), a KFC, a Sushi restaurant, a dry cleaners, a nail salon, a hair salon, and some other shops.  

View of the Special Olympics Office from the Door
My training is taking place at the Special Olympics South Africa office which is located in the fabulously posh Sandton City Mall.  I take the Gautrain Bus to work everyday.  It takes me 20-30 mins to walk (in the HOT SUN...I have adopted the South African way of carrying an umbrella to protect myself from the sun) to the bus stop.

Last week, I had the opportunity to attend a local Special Olympics athletics (track and field) event as part of my training, which was really cool.  
Athletes Racing
Wheel Chair Athletes Race 

 
Athletes Singing the South African National Anthem 


Other than that (for the moment) my lifestyle is pretty similar to my life in the states. I go out to eat a lot with my friend Kaycee (we studied abroad at HEC together) and have met up with other people I connected with before moving out here, including a former Campbells employee.      
Sunday Brunch with Kaycee and One of Her (American) Co-workers 
The Delish Veggie Burger I Enjoyed at Brunch at Odd Cafe
Me and Kayce Enjoying dinner at Rosebank Mall
View of the Rosebank Mall from the Restaurant Terrace
On Saturday, I even treated myself to brunch at a small restaurant/caterer that is next door to me.  This place really helped me the other day too. I had to walk home in the rain.  And not only did I get drenched, but a car drove by and splashed me--soaking me from head to toe (it was like something out of a movie).  I went next door though and treated myself to a cupcake to help me feel better!!!
My "It's Only Water" Cupcake!
Restaurant/Caterer, Cupcakes, that is Next to My House
My Cupcakes Brunch (French Toast, Fried Plantains, and a Fried Egg)

Hope this gives you an understanding of what my new life is like thus far.  So far it is a very atypical Peace Corps experience, but I am not complaining.  Bring on the hot water, flush toilet, microwave, and fridge!!!  A "Posh Corps" life is ok with me!  I go to post though on March 9th so I am sure to have more interesting "adventures" to share after that!

-Mei





Sunday, February 5, 2012

My Mission (I am going to South Africa)...


Peace Corps' Motto on a Billboard

The time is finally here. I leave for South Africa tomorrow (whoop, whoop)!!!  I have a two hours flight from Washington, DC to Atlanta, GA and then a 15 hours and 20 minutes flight to Johannesburg, South Africa.  As such, I think this an appropriate time to give you an understanding of what I will be doing in South Africa.

I am going to South Africa as a Peace Corps Response Volunteer.  I originally served as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Benin, West Africa, from 2000-2002.  Peace Corps Response allows Returned Volunteers (the program actually just opened up to professionals with 10+ years of experience) to serve in professional, short-term assignments around the world.  I will be working with the Special Olympics as a Marketing and Events Manager.

The Special Olympics South Africa and Special Olympics Africa will be hosting a Regional (Africa) soccer tournament at the Royal Bafokeng Sport Palace (one of the stadiums built for the World Cup) in Rustenburg in October 2012.  The tournament will bring together inclusive teams from approximately 16 countries to showcase the skill and ability of the Special Olympics Africa athletes and provide a platform to increase awareness and support of the Special Olympics movement in South Africa and the Africa Region.  I will be responsible for successfully activating all the marketing, awareness and engagement activities for this event.

World Health Organization (W.H.O.) Card-check, Visa-check, Passport-check: I'm ready to go!

When I arrive in South Africa, I along with two other Response Volunteers will be taken to Pretoria for orientation.  Over three days (Peace Corps training is normally three months but shortened for Response Volunteers), Peace Corps will coach us on how to maintain our health and safety during our service and provide an overview of South African culture, history, and language.  We will also do administrative stuff like get our IDs and open bank accounts.  After we swear our allegiance to the U.S. we will leave for our post. 

However, instead of going directly to my post, I will spend the next two and a half weeks in Randburg (a town on the edge of Jo'burg) for Special Olympics orientation.   When I finish there I will attend a weeklong Special Olympics Africa leadership meeting in the Royal Bafokeng nation (the area where I will be living).  So about the second week of March, I will be deployed to my post and move into my temporary new home in Rustenburg.

Not sure what my internet access will be once I am country, but will reach out as soon as possible.  Wish me luck and please keep me in your prayers.

-Mei